Last night Leah and I got back from an amazing long weekend in Uno! Uno is a small town on the coast of Honshu and it's main draw is the ferry port going to many of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea. These islands are famous for their art exhibits. The typhoon that hit us last week was supposed to also hit Uno and the Seto Inland Sea while we were there, but we got lucky and the weather was beautiful all weekend.
We left Saturday morning via shinkansen and arrived at Uno Station just before 11 AM. Momoko, the girl helping us at our guest house, drove to the station to take our bags and show us to the ferry. We didn't want to waste any time, so we hopped on the 11:10 ferry heading to Teshima. Although Naoshima is the more populated and more famous island, we still wanted to check out all Teshima had to offer. The ferry was a bit under half an hour and by noon we had rented bikes and were enjoying some lunch. Although Momoko had told us to get electric bikes to help with the steep hills of the island, we decided to save money and rent regular 3-speed bikes. After going across the entire northern area of the island we were wishing for electric bikes, though. It was so hilly!! We took frequent rests at the different exhibits on the island. We saw a few temples as well. The Teshima Art Museum was my favorite exhibit we saw. It was a white concrete enclosure with two holes in the ceiling. Water came up through some spots on the floor and ran into two pools under the holes. Inside was huge and really relaxing. It was also at the top of the biggest hill, so it was a great place for us to rest for a while and get out of the sun.
We stopped at a few smaller exhibits on the way to the eastern side of the island. At the very north-east corner was the next big exhibit, Les Archives du Coeur. You entered a completely dark hallway with rectangular mirrors of differing sizes covering the walls. About 20 feet into the hallway was a single light-bulb flashing in time with a heartbeat being played from somewhere in the back of the hallway. That flashing bulb was the only light source and the heartbeats were recorded from real people on the island. It was very cool, but a bit scary when the beat slowed as different people's heartbeats played. We could have payed extra to record our heartbeat to add to the collection, but decided against it.
We headed back towards the port on the western side of the island, stopping at a few more smaller exhibits and temples on the way. We played basketball at No One Wins - Multibasket where the backboard was a map of the island and hoops were placed at different heights. It was way more fun than we both originally thought it looked and we spent almost half an hour just goofing around. We also went to a place called Storm House, where you sat inside an old-style Japanese house and watched the windows. In a four or five minute span it seemed to go from the sunny it was outside, to a big thunder storm, and then back to sunny.
By the time we got back to the port it was almost 5 PM, closing time for the exhibits. We luckily just made it into the Yokoo House. It was a really cool house fitted with all kinds of strange features. The main house was made half of black wood and half of red, translucent plastic. The garden in the back had beautifuly crafted animal statues and a koi pond with mosaics running throughout the bottom. The smaller house in back was half tatami floored and half glass to see through to the koi pond. The walls were displaying 11 different 2-D works (some paintings, drawings, and other mediums including one half painted and half moving pictures). Back in the main house was a giant smoke stack shaped area that was covered in pictures of waterfalls and had mirrors on the top and bottom so it seemed to go on forever. I'm really glad we had time to see it before it closed!
We had a snack while waiting for the next ferry back to Uno and got back just about dinner time. Momoko had recommended a restaurant called 大坂屋 (Osaka Ya) and we decided to eat there. Momoko came to pick us up from the restaurant to show us to the guest house for the first time. The guest house, Uno Slope House, is really just the owner's parents' house refurbished into a hotel. Only three rooms are available and there's no signs saying it's a guest house because they want it to feel like you're staying with a friend instead of a hotel. Because there's no signs, though, it's hard to find for the first time, that's why Momoko picked us up. We spoke with her for a while before heading to bed.
Momoko made breakfast in the morning for us and another family staying there. We left early for Naoshima so we could spend all day there. The Uno Slope House had bikes we could use for free, so we took them with us on the ferry. I'm really glad we did, because it was packed even that early in the morning and it looked like the line to rent a bike would have taken over half an hour to get through! We started by going to the area I had been to with Hofstra in Japan. We saw all the Art House Project exhibits and the new ANDO Museum. We had macha floats at a cat cafe and yellow tail burgers at Maimai. After biking around and seeing everything there, we headed to the part of the island I'd never been to. We passed the Tsutsuji rest house and beach and it was packed! Because of the long weekend everyone was out having BBQs and swimming. Leah enjoyed the beach for a bit while I stayed in the shade a read a book. We walked around the Benesse Art Site and took pictures with the famous pumpkin. It was incredibly hot that day and we'd biked around the entire island, so we decided to call it a day. We caught a ferry back to Uno and were back around 5 PM.
Momoko was back as well, so we hung out with her for a few hours. She told us that Uno was having a summer festival that night so around dinner time we decided to check it out. It was only one square block, but it was really nice! Lanterns were hung everywhere and there was an area roped off for taiko drums and dancers. At the shrine, a priest was using an 大幣 (onusa, a wooden staff with zig-zag, white paper) to perform purification rituals for people. There were lots of yatai stalls selling all kinds of food and small goods. There was of course 金魚すくい (kingyo sukui, goldfish scooping), ヨーヨーすくい (yoyo scooping) and even スーパーボールすくい (super-ball scooping). A lot of the local businesses were also out selling food. Momoko told us a friend of hers was selling doughnuts, so we tired them and they were delicious! A local coffee shop was making fresh espresso and selling espresso beer, which was also very good.
After having dinner at the food stalls, we stopped to watch the dancing. The dancing area was a large oval with the tiako drummers int he middle everyone was dancing around the edge of the oval in a pretty easy repeated dance. Leah and I were miming it on the side and one of the dance teams pulled us in to dance with them! It was open to anyone and people from the crowd were joining into the circle, so we decided to join them. We did one full lap around the oval before stepping out, but it was an amazing experience! About an hour before the festival ended we ran into Momoko, who invited us to sit with her and her friends. They were telling us most of the tourists in the area couldn't speak Japanese, so they were excited they could all talk with us in Japanese. We stayed with her and her friends until the festival ended and we all reluctantly parted ways. It was an amazing night and although we were tourists, we really felt included and like we were welcomed into the community!
Monday we had breakfast with Momoko again before checking out of the Uno Slope House. We went back to Naoshima in the morning. We'd found a much smaller beach with no one on it and Leah wanted to go swimming. I stayed on the beach reading and Leah swam for a bit. Once the sun got too much to us we went to the bathhouse we'd missed the day before. The bathhouse was beautifully decorated on the inside with mosaics, a designed glass ceiling, and even an elephant statue. The best part, though, was the name. It's called 'I ♥ 湯.' The last kanji usually means hot water and is part of the word bath, but it's pronounced yu. So the name is, 'I love yu.'
We grabbed some lunch before taking the ferry back to Uno and catching a train to head home. We had to change from the local train to the shinkansen in Okayama and before heading all the way back to Kokura we decided to check out Okayama Castle. We walked about twenty minutes from the train station and I'm really glad we decided to stop. The castle was beautiful and we spend a relaxing time walking around the outside and exploring inside. There was a park nearby and we walked around it until dinner time. We headed back to the station and found a small restaurant on the way back. We were pretty tired by this point, but still had a great dinner and sleepy train ride home. It was the best last trip in Japan I could ask for.
I'm not less than 10 days away from my flight home and I'm going to be busy cleaning, packing, and seeing everyone. I'm hoping to get one more post in before my flight when I will no longer be a JET.